THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE CUVÉE ‘KOFFI’ A layering of two dozen Single Farm Origins Ireland, Single Malt, 50%, 750ml This is the Waterford. From the very beginning Mark Reynier’s plan was always about the Cuvée. The sum of parts, multi-layered and multifarmed this enigmatic gestalt is perhaps the ultimate expression. “The starting point,” explains Ned Gahan, with a smile, “is also always the end point. How many bottles are we looking at for this release? How old are we looking at? After we have that, then it’s a blank canvas.” As Head Distiller for Waterford Distillery, it’s Gahan’s palate that has to select the paints for that canvas; considering Waterford’s stock of 40 000 barrels of precious spirit to decide which to consider for the latest Cuvée. In creating each Cuvée Gahan typically begins with some 150 samples of aged whisky, drawn from different casks distilled from the barley grown on a variety of Irish farms. What helps the process is that a similar barrel regime is applied to the spirit distilled for each farm: typically a combination of first-fill American bourbon, virgin American oak, French wine and Vin Doux Naturel barrels. “The casks have an influence, of course, but they should always be in the background,” adds Gahan. “Really, we want the farms and the barley and the soil to come through.” Beyond an idea of the age and volume of the resulting Cuvée, Gahan then approaches the blending process with an open mind. “You have to go where the whisky is taking you,” explains Gahan. “We’re not making Waterford whisky to a set recipe or standard. We’re trying to give you the best of Waterford. The most layers. The most flavours. The complexity of it is also the simplicity of it.” Waterford’s latest outturn includes three unique Cuvées, including the organic Cuvée Gaia – made with organic barley from six organic farms across diverse vintages – to the Cuvée Fumo, reviving a tradition of peated Irish whisky that was common in the early 19th-century. But it’s the Cuvée Koffi that is today the flag bearer for the Waterford Cuvée concept. Created from 24 distinct farm origin spirits, to create a layered and complex single malt experience, Cuvée Koffi is also – at six years old – Waterford’s oldest release to date. And happily, South Africa and America were the very first global markets to receive this remarkable release, offering local spirits lovers a unique opportunity to taste a whisky that is without doubt a profound expression of modern Irish distilling. Artwork by Nathanaël Koffi Mark Reynier 39
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