2023 / 2024 EDITION
THE NAVIGATOR | INTRODUCTION 1 The Navigator 2023/2024 marks the third year of Navigate World Whisky, and now coming into year four we are proud to finally release our third annual showcase. Delayed somewhat due to the recent crisis in our shipping ports, happily it gave us additional time to fine-tune the stories, add in exclusive interviews, and once again pay attention to every last detail. This year sees Navigate World Whisky make huge strides into taking on additional revered partners across a variety of whisky and spirit categories, an inevitable evolution that forms part of the company’s ongoing journey in the world of Fine Spirits. Fine Spirits… what does that mean? We hope you can browse through our Portfolio and be able to truly answer that question. Some of the venerated partners you’ll find on these pages are already respected as the best in the industry, and perhaps none more so than the American whisky distillery, Michter’s. Named ‘The World’s Most Admired Whiskey’ by Drinks International, it has truly been a landmark for NWW to bring the full Michter’s offering to our shores for the very first time. On the opposite side of the globe we find Japan, a country whose whisky we have been a little starved of in South Africa when it comes to choice. Thankfully this is changing, despite the 750ml requirement that still exists in South Africa. Thanks to our ever-strengthening partnership with La Maison du Whisky, Mars have opened up their doors to South Africa for the first time, and you’ll find their first release in this book. Far smaller – in fact the smallest distillery in Japan – is Nagahama, which now extends its range of 500ml bottles to South Africa, including a landmark single cask! Perhaps a point close to the center of Japan and America lies the Isle of Islay where the Wills family produce their Kilchoman Islay single malt. Being relatively fresh on the whisky scene myself, I recall tasting their very first releases back in 2009. To now be representing them in our market is truly a momentous occasion. We aim to expand their offering in South Africa, to reach more outlets, to reach more homes, and to reach more spirits enthusiasts so that everybody can enjoy a taste of this incredible Islay Farm Distillery. In true Navigate World Whisky style, we also see the release of several new independent bottlings. Teaming up with the ‘Whiskey Sponge’ Angus MacRaild, also known for his regular reviews on WhiskyFun.com, alongside the famous and respected Serge Valentin, we welcome the arrival of a special cask selection just for South Africa. The gentlemen from ‘Rest & Be Thankful’ have also opened up their account with five casks, including two single casks from Islay and two Jamaican rum bottlings. Then from Chicago, the lovely Dr. Sonat Birnecker Hart extends her words and whisky to our market. There are unicorn bottlings from Lux Row Distillers, a company we’ll be unpacking more of in the near future. Look for the blended whiskies from Woven, a new innovative blending brand pushing beyond the borders of just Scotland. There’s a new wave of rums including the final instalment in the Mauritian rum discovery, a secretive local and undisclosed spirit bottling that is certain to raise eyebrows, and even some bubbly (you heard correctly). Whilst The Navigator was created to provide insight into the world of fine spirits, it has often been referred to and used as an educational tool. We’ve expanded on this with insight into the new Japanese regulations, along with an overview of the Irish Technical File. Still, perhaps, for me at least, the most interesting reads are the stories coming from the dozen or so interviews with industry figureheads and leading lights in the industry; the likes of Thierry Benitah, Anthony Wills and Joseph J. Magliocco, who all share their expertise and insight into the captivating and dynamic industry of fine spirits. I hope you like it! - Alex de Ujfalussy Founder of Navigate World Whisky
2
3 W H I S K Y PG. 4 PG. 6 PG. 9 PG. 10 PG. 14 PG. 18 PG. 19 PG. 20 PG. 21 PG. 26 PG. 28 PG. 38 PG. 42 PG. 44 PG. 46 PG. 61 PG. 66 PG. 67 PG. 70 PG. 72 PG. 79 JAPANESE REGULATIONS NAGAHAMA MARS THIERRY BÉNITAH PARTNERS CASK STRENGTH COLLECTION BALLECHIN THE WHISKY SPONGE WOVEN BRUICHLADDICH (R&B) KILCHOMAN WATERFORD IRISH REGULATIONS POWERSCOURT MICHTER’S LUX ROW LIMESTONE BRANCH FEW WIDOW JANE KOVAL BOULDER
4 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE WILL NEW REGULATIONS CLEAN UP JAPANESE WHISKY? PERHAPS Nice idea. Does it have the teeth? That is perhaps the best way to describe the ‘Standards for Labeling Japanese Whisky’ that fully came into effect on 1 April, 2024, with the aim of ensuring only whisky produced in Japan, to a prescribed set of standards, could be labelled and sold as such. That’s the aim, though it may not be the outcome. And it’s certainly a hot topic. Over the last decade the worldwide demand for Japanese whisky has boomed, and volumes have soared. And although there has certainly been a surge in new distilleries opening in Japan, supplying that demand hasn’t come simply from new stills sprouting across Hokkaido, or the mash tuns at Yamazaki working overtime. Rather, what has driven the growth is the volume of whisky imported to Japan in bulk for rebottling and exporting. With new labelling – typically with Japanese lettering, a catchy name and perhaps a drawing of cherry blossoms or Mount Fuji – it is then sold abroad as ‘Japanese’ whisky, often at a premium price point. And that practice is what the new rules are trying to rein in. The regulations – see sidebar for some of the details – are the initiative of the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association (JS&LMA), an industry body that includes major producers such as Suntory, Nikka, Mars, Chichibu and even smaller producers such as Akkeshi and Nagahama. The new regulations were announced in 2021, with the Association allowing members three years to get their sourcing and labelling in order. But here’s the kicker: the ‘regulations’ only apply to members of the JS&LMA, not the industry as a whole. So for non-members, it’s business as usual. The regulations also have no backing in law, and there are no penalties or repercussions listed for infringement.
PRODUCTION METHOD QUALITY REQUIREMENTS RAW INGREDIENTS Raw ingredients must be limited to malted grains, other cereal grains, and water extracted in Japan. Malted grains must always be used. PRODUCTION METHOD PRODUCTION Saccharification, fermentation, and distillation must be carried out at a distillery in Japan. Alcohol content at the time of distillation must be less than 95%. AGING The distilled product must be poured into wooden casks not exceeding a capacity of 700 liters and matured in Japan for a period of at least 3 years thereafter. BOTTLING Bottling must take place only in Japan, with alcoholic strength of at least 40% as of such time. OTHER Plain caramel coloring can be used. 5 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE “The Japanese have long been master blenders, and the bulk of Japanese product exported is blended whisky, and much of it isn’t made in Japan,” says Alex de Ujfalussy, founder of Navigate World Whisky. “They do produce their own single malts, but a lot of what is out there can’t strictly be called Japanese whisky according to the new regulations. I’d say this designation is long overdue, but to be truly effective it requires greater capacity for enforcement, and the buy-in from the entire industry.” So although the market is still wide open for those looking to masquerade Japanese whisky abroad, the fact that the JS&LMA includes some key Japanese producers means that the changes have already had some positive impact. Popular blends such as Nikka have been updated to step in line with the rules, while “the new regulations have forced some of the larger producers who are part of this industry group to build distilleries and make their own whisky in Japan,” says La Maison du Whisky’s Didier Ghorbanzadeh, an expert on Japanese whisky, and renowned spirits educator. But because the guidelines are only that – a best practice suggestion, without any regulatory teeth – it won’t prevent opportunist liquor companies from continuing to import cheap bulk whisky from elsewhere in the world and rebottling it as Japanese whisky. “It pushes the industry in the right way, but it does still leave the consumer in a position where they might not know exactly what they are buying,” says Ghorbanzadeh. The solution? Well, you can either do your own research and stay up to date with which brands are members of the JS&LMA, and have updated their labels accordingly, or you can buy from a trusted source that can vouch for the true origin of the spirit in each bottle. Because although we’re all for innovation in the world of spirits, and whisky-lovers being able to buy blends crafted from malts made around the world, NWW stands for authenticity and transparency. If it says Japanese whisky on the bottle, it should be distilled, matured and bottled in Japan. Period. Prohibition of Misleading Labeling The specified term shall include the words “Japanese” and “whisky” (or “whiskey”) in a unified and integrated manner without inserting additional words between them. For whisky that meets the production method quality requirements set forth, the type of whisky may be indicated together with the specified term if based on the permissible labeling of types of whisky under the Fair Competition Code. It is currently understood that the types of whisky permitted to be labeled under the Fair Competition Code include the following: “Malt Whisky”, “Grain Whisky”, “Blended Whisky”, “Straight Whisky”, “Single Whisky” and “Pure Whisky”. The specified terms set forth may not be used in labeling products unless the production method quality requirements are satisfied, even if such terms are expressed through or with (i) words that have the same meanings as those terms (e.g., “Nihon whisky” or “Japan whisky”), (ii) translations into Japanese or a foreign language or (iii) terms such as “type” or “style”. Business operators shall not use labeling that includes any of the items below for products that do not satisfy the production method quality requirements set forth, unless measures are taken to clarify that the product being labeled does not meet such requirements: (i) Names of people that evoke Japan (ii) Names of Japanese cities, regions, famous places, mountains and rivers (iii) The Japanese flag or a Japanese era name (iv) Any other labeling that makes it likely that the product being labeled is mistaken for a product that satisfies the production method quality requirements. Business operators shall not use labeling that makes it likely that alcohol products that do not meet the definition of “whisky” under the Liquor Tax Act are mistaken for whisky, and shall not supply, or cooperate in supplying, alcohol products to vendors that use such labeling. “Japanese whisky” (or “Japanese whiskey”)
6 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION NAGAHAMA 4 YO 2019 Red Wine Cask Japan, Single Malt, 53.7% ABV, 500ml Single Cask #2244, Red Wine Cask Limited Edition of 330 bottles – NWW Exclusive Nagahama Distillery is a new craft distillery in Japan. It is operated by the Roman Beer company which has specialised in beer brewing since 1996. This single cask is particularly inspiring considering it was initially aged in Koval casks (an American whiskey distributed by Navigate World Whisky) from Chicago for 3 years, followed by an additional maturation period of 1 year in a Japanese red wine cask. It is a testament to the artistry of whisky-making, combining the rich character of Koval with the nuanced influence of Japanese red wine, resulting in a whisky that is both complex and harmonious. This unique single cask is a captivating journey through a garden of flowers and fruits, telling a story with every sip. Nose: Delicate and enticing aromas of violet and lemongrass greet your senses. These floral and herbal notes intertwine gracefully, creating an inviting bouquet. Beneath this, bright and tropical accents of pineapple and mango. Palate: An exceptionally smooth character, a testament to its careful aging process. Strawberry candy notes add a playful, fruity dimension, while the slight sourness of plum dances on the taste buds. A hint of cheesecake emerges, adding a creamy, decadent quality to the experience. Finish: A symphony of lingering sweetness.
7 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION NAGAHAMA The First Batch Bourbon, Sherry, Islay Quarter & Mizunara casks Japan, Single Malt, 50% ABV, 500ml Un-chillfiltered – Uncoloured The smallest craft distillery in Japan. Launched in 2016, with the smallest still, in a 26m2 room. The distillery is located on the site of the Nagahama Roman Brewery, established in 1996. It has a direct connection to the waters of Lake Biwa, the largest freshwater lake in Japan whose source is Mount Ibuki. The single malts from the distillery are called “Nagahama”. Six years have gone by since Nagahama started whisky production in December 2016. This is the memorable release of “The First Batch”, Nagahama’s first single malt! The distillery blended four different types of their own non-peated whiskies, distilled between 2017 and 2019. Whisky aged in Bourbon casks are used as the base, in addition to whisky aged in Sherry, Islay Quarter and Mizunara oak casks which have then been put together to create their first vatted single malt whisky. Elegant and malty, which is a particular characteristic of Nagahama whiskies, First Batch is rich in taste. Nose: Delicate notes of ripe fruits such as red apple or persimmon. Sweet vanilla, coconut, and caramel are followed by the refreshing aromas of raspberries and cranberries. Palate: Very smooth, the palate is reminiscent of freshly baked raisin cookies or dried apricots. Then can be found herbal essence, like a freshly brewed black tea. Finish: The bitterness and dryness derived from the different barrels bring out the whole taste.
8 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION NAGAHAMA The Second Batch Oloroso, ex-Koval, Islay Quarter & Bourbon Quarter casks Japan, Single Malt, 50% ABV, 500ml Un-chillfiltered – Uncoloured Following “The First Batch” released in October 2022, Nagahama launched their second single malt made only from Nagahama raw whisky. With a base of whisky distilled in 2019 and aged in Oloroso Sherry, they carefully vat matured whisky from ex-Koval cask, Islay Quarter cask, and Bourbon Quarter cask, with the experience and technique that has been cultivated through the production of their world blended whisky series “AMAHAGAN”. The single malts from the distillery are called “Nagahama”. Reading it from right to left we have the name of their blended malt whiskeys named “Amahagan”! The rich and mellow single malt from Nagahama Sherry cask harmonises well with the other aged whiskies, allowing a smoky yet elegant nuance that mingles gently in the aftertaste. Nose: Baked orange, blueberries, cassis, slightly sour plums. A nutty accent of walnuts. A gentle smokiness reminiscent of fading bonfire spreads comfortably. Palate: Mild mouthfeel. Dry and spicy with layers of raisin sandwiches, berries, plums. Just the right amount of toasted flavour in the middle. Finish: The bitterness and dryness derived from the different barrels bring out the whole taste.
9 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION MARS KOMAGATAKE 2023 EDITION Bourbon, Sherry & Port Casks Japan, Single Malt Whisky, 50%, 750ml Single Malt Komagatake is produced at the Mars Shinshu Distillery, located at the foot of Komagatake Mountain in the Central Alps, surrounded by abundant nature with fresh air and water gifted from the mountains. It has been more than 10 years since Mars Shinshu Distillery restarted its production in 2011 after 19 years of mothballing. The Single Malt Komagatake Shinshu aging “2023 Edition” is made mainly from whisky aged in bourbon barrels, accented with sherry and port cask aged whisky. Profile: Clean and rich. Nose: The fruity notes of apricot, orange peel and banana are followed by an elegant and deep aroma reminiscent of black tea. Palate: Elegant introduction with the taste of dried plum, when comes up rich and complex flavours derived from sherry casks. Hints of hazelnut and maple syrup brings structure while we feel a gentle sweetness spreading from ripe persimmons. Finish: The impression is rich and full. A smooth and pleasant taste lingers.
10 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE It was the late-1980s, and Georges Bénitah was in Scotland. Georges was something of a household name when it came to whisky in France. Together with his two brothers he’d founded La Maison du Whisky in 1956 and transformed the French palate for single malt. They signed on new brands and pioneered the concept of single-cask bottlings in France. Georges was an astute salesman with a refined palate, but his English was limited. And so, his son Thierry had been asked to travel with him to Scotland as an interpreter. But stepping into the distilleries for the first time Thierry was bowled over by the pungent smell of the mash tuns and the malted barley, the heady scent all too overwhelming. “I told my father, I will never work in this industry!” says Thierry with a chuckle. He was, happily, to be proven wrong. Thierry Bénitah began his career in the world of finance and the stock markets, later spending two years in the United States to pursue his Master of Business Administration. Although he’d grown up in one of France’s most famous spirits families, it was only here that he first began to learn to enjoy whisky. When Thierry returned to France, and a presumed career in finance, Georges announced he was thinking of selling the family business. Though Thierry’s uncles were partners, Georges was the face of La Maison du Whisky. Thierry’s interest was piqued, and by 1995 they had bought out his uncle’s share of the business. With annual sales of just €1.5-million and a staff of six people, “it was a tiny, tiny company,” remembers Thierry. “No website. Always split between trade and consumer sales.” Until 1995 La Maison du Whisky had focused on well-known Scottish brands, but as Thierry took the reins he saw the potential in stocking and selling lesser-known distilleries. He expanded the portfolio, went searching for new brands in the USA, and established La Maison du Whisky as a home for the most exciting brands spirits enthusiasts had never heard of. “I started to grow the portfolio, and it was quite easy because nobody else was doing this apart from the big players,” recalls Thierry. “We were alone.” Using the new-fangled technology of the time – dubbed ‘email’ – he worked on building a direct relationship with customers. That direct connection, and the immediacy of digital communication, sparked a fervent interest in the swathe of new single malts La Maison du Whisky was introducing to the market. “It really tapped into a new generation of drinkers,” recalls Thierry. “It reminds me of what we see today with rum drinkers. It was the same in 1995 with single malt. People were queuing outside the doors of La Maison du Whisky to buy a single bottle!” THIERRY BÉNITAH: A MASTER OF MALT LOST CASKS AND A LOVE FOR WHISKY
11 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE A BRAVE NEW (DIGITAL) WORLD In November 1997 Thierry launched La Maison du Whisky’s website, inspired by what he’d seen during his time in America. It was the first website for spirits sales in France, and although sales were almost non-existent due to fears around Internet security, “it gave visibility to our brand. We were quite avant-garde,” says Thierry with a smile. Beyond technological changes in the marketing and sales of spirits, Thierry has also witnessed an evolution in the palates – and purchasing habits – of spirits-lovers. “For me the biggest change over the last 30 years is how the sweet taste is becoming more obvious. When I started, the likes of Laphroaig and Lagavulin were about dry, smoky flavours. Nowadays there is more sweetness in whisky.” That changing palate is also driving the growing interest in rum. “When I started the best sellers were the entry price whisky, and those were blended scotch, but even those were super-dry with 80 percent grain, 20 percent malt. The grain gave a lot of dry notes. Since then we have seen sales of blended scotch going down and today we sell almost no blended scotch, but we now sell a lot of entry-priced sweeter rum.” Over the decades Thierry has also been instrumental in establishing the cachet of exclusive releases and single-cask bottlings. “When we started we were a super-small player and we needed to differentiate ourselves. The only way to remain in this market was to grow the awareness of the customer in higher-value whisky. The single cask release was a way to premiumise the market and create more value for La Maison du Whisky.” “For me it became a model. In a way we influenced the market, especially here in France, but in the end it is the consumer who controls the market. Which is good. I think you always need to reinvent yourself, otherwise you disappear.” And La Maison du Whisky is certainly not going anywhere. Nearly 30 years after Thierry took the reins, today more than 240 people work across the company and volumes have grown to roughly seven million bottles per year with a turnover over €150-million. One hundred times the value of when he took control of the company. Thierry Bénitah
12 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE LAND OF THE RISING SUN Part of that success has been thanks to La Maison du Whisky’s prescient embrace of Japanese whisky. “It was only through travelling and meeting people that I really came across Japanese whisky,” recalls Benitah, as frequent travels to Bowmore, then owned by Suntory, led renowned distiller Jim McEwan to introduce Thierry to the realm of Japanese whisky. By 2000, La Maison du Whisky was working closely with Ben Nevis Distillery and each Christmas Thierry would receive a Christmas gift. A salmon one year. Perhaps a haggis another. In 2000 he received three bottles of Japanese whisky. “I was completely amazed. It was really revolutionary for me. Those three whiskies were just perfect. The cask strength, 10 years old, was absolutely amazing.” The whiskies were from Nikka, which owned Ben Nevis Distillery, and Thierry wanted in. “I said, can I buy a pallet? So we started to import pallet after pallet. We went from one container to two to 10. It was crazy.” Until 2005 the best-selling whisky for La Maison du Whisky was Redbreast 12-year-old. That year, it became Nikka. In 2007 La Maison du Whisky was asked to represent Nikka in Europe, and the company soon generated 95 percent of the brand’s sales outside of Japan “For me it was a crazy opportunity,” remembers Thierry. The good times lasted for seven years, but as demand for Japanese whisky grew within Japan volumes available for export to Europe were cut back. As more Nikka stayed in Japan, from 2014 to 2022 LMDW received an allocation, and the growth – until then 50 percent year-on-year – ground to a halt. “It was very frustrating,” remembers Thierry. “Although the value of Nikka continued to grow, the volumes didn’t.” But with Nikka La Maison du Whisky became the experts on Japanese whisky, opening the door to represent iconic brands like Chichibu and Mars in the European market. Nikka Distillery Mars Shinshu Distillery
WHISKY LIVE Looking to capitalise on the potential of engaging directly with customers beyond the nascent technology of ‘email’, in 1995 Benitah hosted a tasting event for customers attended by some 1500 people. Fast-forward to 2004 when La Maison du Whisky took on the Whisky Magazine licence, and launched the rebranded Whisky Live Paris to staggering success. In 2023 close on 50 000 people attended this landmark spirits gathering, celebrating spirits and mixology in a dynamic event focused on growing the premium spirits category. “It’s not only an event, and it’s not only about tasting,” says Thierry. “It’s about creating more experiences. It’s about quality. Some people have been coming since 2004, but we also need to attract new customers to the category. Whenever we see an opportunity and we see there is value we want to meet this opportunity. It’s about product and people.” 13 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE A TREASURE TROVE OF KARUIZAWA Over 30 years in the business he has enjoyed countless encounters with rare and remarkable whiskies, but for Thierry one missed opportunity stands out. “I visited Karuizawa before it closed and it was amazing. There were so many single casks. Single casks everywhere in the cellar. For me, it was a kind of treasure.” In 2005 La Maison du Whisky began importing whisky from Karuizawa distillery, driven by belief rather than demand. “It was not selling, but we were sure it was going to be something big. So we took our allocation each year and little by little we started to grow our volumes of Karuizawa.” And then, an opportunity: 360 casks of old Karuizawa being put up for sale. While Thierry was negotiating a price to buy the entire stock, in February 2011 the tsunami and nuclear disaster at Fukushima temporarily collapsed global demand for Japanese whisky and saw the sale draw to a halt. “It was a disaster for Japanese whisky,” he recalls. “People thought that Japanese whisky was radioactive!” Nine months later the crisis was over, but an intermediary had snapped up the barrels. But after tasting more than 100 casks in the Chichibu distillery, Thierry was invited to purchase a portion of the stock. He finally walked away with a third of the original Karuizawa treasure trove. It’s a fantastic tale, but Karuizawa is also just indicative of the ethos behind La Maison du Whisky; of a passion to share the world’s most remarkable spirits with a global audience. “We take risks. We have a real passion for quality whisky, and this is what drives us,” says Thierry. “We push, we make it happen, to influence the market and grow the category. We are not shy. For us to buy amazing whisky, to select amazing whisky it’s never a risk, because the quality is there. We always bet on quality.”
OF STONE AND LIGHT AND WATER BY CHRISTIAAN CONRADIE Akin to Aultmore’s seclusion from the fishing port to Keith, isolation in a vibrant landscape is captured. Intuitive mark-making creates visual and psychological intensity, juxtaposed with careful detail and sensitivity, echoing Aultmore’s audacious character. Bold yet precise, the tension in brushstrokes mirrors “Allt Mòr,” the distillery’s water source, the convergence of power and its release. The interplay of brushstrokes, colours, and emotions evokes synergy amid the marshy terrain’s embrace. “ “ THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE 14
15 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION AULTMORE 11 YO 2012 Partners 3.1 Speyside, Single Malt Whisky, 58.3%, 750ml Single Cask #700327, ex-Bourbon Barrel Limited Edition of 234 bottles – NWW Exclusive The Partners series features exclusive bottlings of single cask single malts, that are firstly shortlisted in a selection by the team of experts at La Maison du Whisky, with each bottling presenting a unique expression of a renowned Scottish distillery. This particular cask, selected by Navigate World Whisky, is a testament to the unique character of its originating distillery Aultmore, showcasing the diverse regional influences that define the rich tapestry of Scottish whisky. Each release captures the provenance of each distillery and features singular artworks, also selected and curated by Navigate World Whisky, adding further collectability to this growing portfolio of exceptional malts. Affectionately nicknamed the “Nip of the Buckie Road” by its local fishermen, this single malt’s distillery is located ten kilometers from Aultmore in the small port of Buckie in the Moray Firth. It has always been popular in the region with its reputation for aromas of light fruit and remarkably fresh texture. This single malt is no exception and honours the legacy of this distillery which was completely rebuilt in the early 1970s. Nose: Fine and complex. Apricot, almond, quince paste, toffee, powdery (cocoa), heather, ginger, and chestnut honey. Palate: Racy and precise. Lime blossom, persimmon, dark chocolate, salted butter caramel, sweet spices and Espelette pepper. Finish: Buttery and silky. Cinnamon, candied ginger, leather, noble wood, apricot, lime blossom, and verbena.
THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE 16 Constantly searching for unique whiskies, La Maison du Whisky has been bottling exceptional single cask whiskies under their Artist Series for over a decade. Upon the founding of Navigate World Whisky, La Maison du Whisky decided to offer its partners the opportunity to exclusively bottle the results of this avant-garde and know-how. It is through the Partners range that this collaboration has taken shape. Every year Navigate World Whisky seeks out a local artist to collaborate with and now in its third consecutive year, Partners 3.1 and 3.2 is no different. This year two new Scottish distilleries come to the fore, Aultmore and Glen Moray.
17 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION GLEN MORAY 14 YO 2010 Partners 3.2 Speyside, Single Malt, 56%, 750ml Single Cask #800541, ex-Bourbon cask Limited edition of 182 bottles – NWW Exclusive The Glen Moray distillery was founded in 1897, in the village of Elgin, located in the Speyside in Scotland. It is famous for its bourbon cask ageing and its mastery on the impact of a toasted cask on its whisky. This 14-year-old single malt, aged in an ex-bourbon barrel, highlights in a very delicate way how a cask can have a distinctive, but seamless impact on the original distillate. This Glen Moray 2010’s aromatic profile is built around aromas of white fruit, vanilla and toasted bread. Nose: Cut grass, dusty barley fields, floral, wild flowers, sweet tropical fruits, wine gums, jellies and roasted pear. A true Speyside-er but in the best way. A light peppery note is starting to make its way through along with some grist, fennel and perhaps a little seaweed. Palate: The palate enters with those tropical fruit notes but then the cask strength ABV kicks in to provide a bitterness reminiscent of dried fruits (apricots perhaps), vanilla, wild flowers, poached pear and malted barley all mingled with an ongoing peppery note. Very rich. Finish: Warm and surprisingly spicy. Quite the peppery finish now. What a lovely combination.
18 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION BEN NEVIS 8 YO 2014 Cask Strength Collection Highlands, Single Malt, 59.6%, 750ml Single cask #274, Second Fill Sherry Butt Limited Edition of 591 bottles – NWW Exclusive Founded in 1825 and acquired by the Japanese Nikka group in 1989, Ben Nevis is one of Scotland’s few bicentenary distilleries. Situated on the mainland west coast of Scotland, in the shadow of Britain’s highest mountain from which it takes its name, Ben Nevis is renowned for its ageing in ancient sherry casks. In recent years, the Ben Nevis distillery seemed to have fallen into a gentle torpor, but it hadn’t said its last word. It was in 2012 that the reawakening came with the arrival of the intensely peaty Ben Nevis Traditional. The distillery still hides beauties just waiting to be awakened... This Ben Nevis, distilled in 2014 and aged in a second fill sherry butt, has a rich, gourmand profile. Bringing together single malts and single grains bottled at their natural strength, the Cask Strength Collection range is undoubtedly one of Signatory Vintage’s most iconic. Each whisky is bottled without reduction, colouring or chill filtration, and usually from a single cask. Signatory Vintage opts for transparency, indicating on the labels all production details: distillery, region, date of distillation and bottling, type of cask used and number of bottles produced. A selection of quality bottlings that will delight enthusiasts looking for whiskies with character. Colour: Deep amber. Nose: Rich aromas of dried fruits, prunes, and figs, accompanied by notes of dark chocolate, honey and toasted oak. Palate: Velvety texture with a beautiful expression of dried fruit, macerated raisins, and dates. Finish: Long on the palate, with lingering sherry and dried fruit flavours.
19 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION Located in Pitlochry, Perthshire, Edradour distillery was bought in 2002 by Andrew Symington, founder of the independent bottling company Signatory Vintage. To create a highly peaty second malt named Ballechin, this second single malt is made from barley malted at 50 ppm, a level comparable to the smokiest Islay malts. Available since 2006, it is produced in a limited annual batch of 6,000 bottles. A peaty version of Edradour, this Ballechin 2013 was aged in first-fill bourbon casks before bottling. Pale gold in colour, this single malt has an intense, fruity profile, in perfect harmony with the lightly peated notes typical of the distillery. Whether through the singular style of its whiskies, its troubled past with the American mafia during Prohibition, or the personality of its owner, everything is done to make you fall in love with this distillery, which has preserved its authenticity since the 19th century. This expression is smoky and floral with white fruit, green apple, and vanilla. Colour: Light amber. Nose: Light peat smoke, delicate notes of white flowers and white fruit. Palate: Rich and velvety, with an intensity of peat and aromas of green apple. Finish: Long and delicate, with lingering vanilla notes and light smoke. BALLECHIN 10 YO 2013 First Fill Bourbon Barrel Highlands, Single Malt, 46%, 750ml Single cask #22, First Fill Bourbon Barrel Limited Edition of 297 bottles – NWW Exclusive
ARDMORE 13 YO 2009 Whisky Sponge Highlands, Single Malt, 53%, 750ml Single cask #709388, Matured in a Refill Barrel Limited Edition of 104 bottles Established in 2020 by Angus MacRaild, The Whisky Sponge is an independent bottler with a distinct personality. While the Whisky Sponge’s visual labels and written notes are humorous and binge-worthy, it’s important to recognise that the liquid itself is incredibly delicious. Not to mention, it has garnered quite the cult following! This bottle hails from Ardmore Distillery, nestled in the charming village of Kennethmont, Scotland. It has a rich history dating back to its establishment in 1898. This expression showcases the distillery’s commitment to tradition which is evident in its use of lightly peated malt, delivering a unique character to its single malt Scotch whisky. Colour: Pale gold Nose: Very classical Ardmore that shows well at this slightly reduced bottling strength with very crisp, chalky peat smoke aromas, backed by sheep wool notes and these typically soft, Ardmore farmyard impressions. A little water brings out lemon rinds, smoked olive oil and notes of putty and camphor. Palate: Much more coastal than the nose suggested with some up-front briny notes and a wonderfully pure and crisp peat smoke, warming peppery notes and then a development back towards the more classical Ardmore farm qualities with earthier smoke and black olive. Water brings a little tart green fruit and some nicely refreshing mineral qualities. Finish: Good length, showing sustained elegant peat smoke, pepper, soft aniseed notes and even a little waxiness. 20 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION
WOVEN EXPERIENCE N.11 PEACHY Married in a Refill Macduff Butt & Ben Nevis Hogshead Scotland, Blended Whisky, 45.5%, 500ml Marrying period: 45 days A blend of six Scottish distilleries went into the creation of Experience N.11, blended on the 24th of October 2022 and married together in both a Refill Macduff Butt and Refill Ben Nevis Hogshead, for a period of 45 days. Named “Peachy”. “A generous dream of a dram. A vibe; somewhere between vivid and evocative. It begins with freshness, then blossoms. Softly. Juicy fruits of summer sitting roundly on the palate. Then slowly fading, like hazy, sun-kissed memories. With just 1487 bottles, this is N.11; Plump and perpetually ripe for the picking. Go on... have a little squeeze.” Nose: Peach, melon, and lychee. Palate: Spice, peach, and tannins. Finish: Burn lemon, hay, and oak. Composition: Loch Lomond Single Malt Highland Grain (Malt Based) Glentauchers Distillery Cameronbridge Distillery Strathclyde Distillery Glasgow Distillery 15.2% 36.3% 13.1% 5.05% 25.3% 5.05% 21 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION
22 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION Tullibardine, Loch Lomond, Girvan and Cameronbridge are four of the named distilleries that went into this blend which was married together for 45 days in a Refill Sherry Butt and Peated Hogshead Cask before being named “Echoes”. WOVEN EXPERIENCE N.12 ECHOES Refill Sherry Butt & Peated Hogshead Cask Scotland, Blended Whisky, 47.3%, 500ml Marrying period: 45 days “What do you hear when you really listen? Sip. Pause. Wait... There. What do you hear? That’s the moment Woven conjures in Experience N.12. The signals that we miss. What we hear when we stop. And truly listen. The echo; The perception of a reflection. It happens with taste, too. So taste as you hear and tune into flavours that were there all along. Smoke and fruit. First whispered; then powerful. This is Experience N.12.” Nose: Apple, brown sugar, and malt. Palate: Spiced apple, barbeque, and honey. Finish: Embers, stewed fruits, and smoke. Composition: Loch Lomond Single Malt Highland Grain Distillery (Wheat Based) Girvan Distillery Cameronbridge Distillery Speyside Blended Malt (Lightly Peated) Tullabardine (Burgandy Wine) 20.6% 11.8% 9.7% 17.7% 30.4% 9.8%
WOVEN EXPERIENCE N.13 CATALYST Married in a Refill Sherry Butt & Peated Hogshead Cask Scotland, Blended Whisky, 47.1%, 500ml Marrying period: 45 days Woven’s approach to whisky-making is itself a blend of different influences. There’s the chance encounters, inspiring anecdotes, connections with passionate makers, and introductions to friends of friends. There’s the inspiration from elements within and well outside the world of whisky. There’s the resurrection of some obsolete and forgotten traditions and techniques. And the creation of a few new ones. All of these influences converge in their tiny studio in Leith. And they guide the decisions made each day as they work to change perceptions of what blended whisky can be. Six components went into Experience N.13 including single grain whisky, organic highland grain and several other well-known single malt and grain distilleries. Blended on the 24th of October 2022 and married together in both a Refill Sherry Butt and Peated Hogshead Cask for a period of 45 days, N.13 has been named “Catalyst”. “An experience with its own energy. There is action here. Liquid alive. An arrangement of flavours imparting a sense of transformation. A daring dance of emotion in motion. Fermentation and maturation. A living highball, weirdly swirling with energy. You’re moving too, from bystander to participant. This is experience N.13 and you have become it. Causation + Reaction = A Conversation.” Nose: Oily, earthy, and chocolate. Palate: Milk chocolate, dark fruits, and spice. Finish: Chocolate, brine, and oak. Composition: Single Grain Whisky Organic Highland Grain Whisky Knockdhu Single Malt Cameronbridge Single Grain Tullabardine Burgandy Hogshead North British Single Grain 23.8% 13.1% 11.9% 9.5% 23.8% 17.9% 23 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION
Woven source some of the best whiskies from across the world. But once those samples hit the blending table, they’re all equal. They judge their quality through a single lens - the liquid’s ability to contribute to the experience they’re creating. No origin, reputation, age, cost or narrative. Zero pretence. Consisting of five Scottish distilleries and one unnamed Speyside Blended Malt (lightly peated), Experience N.11, blended on the 24th of October 2022 and married together in both a Refill PX Hogshead for a period of 45 days. Named “Kaleidoscopic”. WOVEN EXPERIENCE N.14 KALEIDOSCOPIC Married in a Refill PX Hogshead Scotland, Blended Whisky, 51.7%, 500ml Marrying period: 40 days “Colours and textures emerge and converge. Ideas. Patterns. Abstraction and refraction. Far- fetched concepts amid beautiful chaos. Flavours cascade into new ones faster than we can find words. The joy is in letting go. Totally, if you can. Seek to enjoy first then to understand later, maybe. This is N.14. Quite the ride.” Nose: Perfumed, marzipan, and blossoms. Palate: Autumn leaves, apples, and smoke. Finish: Faint smoke, spice, and oak. Composition: Strathclyde Distillery Girvan Distillery Tullabardine Distillery (Burgandy Wine) Unnamed Speyside Blended Malt (Lightly Peated) Loch Lomond Single Malt North British Grain 18.5% 11.8% 30.9% 19.1% 9.3% 4.9% 24 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION
25 BRUICHLADDICH KILCHOMAN ISLAY BOWMORE LAPHROAIG LAGAVULIN ARDBEG BUNNAHABHAIN ARDNAHOE CAOL ILA SCOTLAND HIGHLANDS LOWLANDS CAMBELTOWN ISLANDS SPEYSIDE THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE ISLAY
BRUICHLADDICH 12 YO 2011 Rest & Be Thankful Islay, Single Malt, 55.9%, 500ml Single Cask #2482, ex-Bourbon Cask Limited edition of 379 bottles – NWW Exclusive This year Navigate World Whisky officially partnered up with Independent bottler Rest & Be Thankful, overcoming bottle size and packaging obstacles through production efforts from both abroad and in South Africa. On the whisky front we launch with two single casks from the Bruichladdich distillery on Islay, both of which were distilled under the reign of Mark Reynier. As with many a renowned Scottish distillery, Bruichladdich founded in 1881, mothballed for the first time from 1929 to 1936, has had a series of closures and reopenings between 1983 and late 2001. Fortunately this came to an end in late 2000 when it was purchased by Murray McDavid and later on acquired by current owners Rémy Cointreau in 2012. Unlike their neighbouring distilleries from the island of Islay, the Bruichladdich range is made without peat. Without the influence of smoke, they expose the brilliance of their raw ingredient – barley. Distilled on 11/07/2011 and fully matured in an ex-bourbon cask, unchill-filtered and without added colourants, this single cask bottling allows one to enjoy an Islay single malt, “unpeated”. Profile: Glorious Golden Barley Nose: Good gracious! That’s a barley nose. Freshly cut grass, (after all barley is a member of the grass family, is it not?), rich stewed fruits, vanilla icing sugar and a fresh donut. Jelly tots, the pink and yellow ones come to mind but also the bottom of the actual packet where the most sugar is found. Back to baked fruits, vanilla, plenty of yeast and actually, let’s just call this one big bakery. Wild flowers, wild herbs, a field full of life. Revisited after sipping, a salt and maritime note reveals itself along with freshly shucked oysters and a dash of lemon. Who says it needs to be peated to taste of Islay? Palate: Sweet, fruity, thick, fulfilling and balanced with just the right amount of ABV. Crisp apples, a hot toddy lightly spiced, warm apple cider and perhaps a baked lemon cake. Freshly malted barley grains offer a rich malt mouthfeel that leads to a long, long finish. Finish: Long yet not warm, building up layer after layer of malted barley, apple stew, poached pears and spices. 26 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION
27 THE NAVIGATOR | EXPRESSION In December 2000, Mark Reynier embarked on a daring new journey to breathe life into Bruichladdich distillery, after he acquired the abandoned Islay distillery from Whyte & Mackay for £6m in 2000. His avant-garde approach frequently led to conflicts with the Scotch Whisky Association, numerous novel releases, the use of prestigious wine casks for aging, and an examination of terroir in whisky. This exploration delved into the impact of the landscape and barley on the spirit, a perspective seldom explored elsewhere. One such prestigious wine cask is the second Bruichladdich single cask to launch in South Africa, ex-Mourvèdre wine cask, selected by Navigate World Whisky. Distilled on 01/06/2006 and fully matured in the ex-Mourvèdre Red Wine Cask, it was bottled in July 2023 with a yield of just 392 bottles. This cask strength wonder, boasting an ABV of 59.1%, is truly a gem of a bottling with the entire cask being exclusive to the South African market. Colour: Rich Mahogany Profile: Onion Marmalade Nose: Meaty, winey, brown sauce or perhaps something a little sweeter, Worcestershire sauce it is! Leathery, a Portuguese steak. Dry wood, Biltong & toasted pine nuts. Coriander seed, cheese crackers, fresh ricotta, burnt strawberry jam, tarte tatin. A revisit after sipping reveals more of a herbaceous nose and Coca Cola bottle shape gums. Palate: Deep rich wine, perhaps a beef ragu slow cooking in the oven. Warming, not far off a Sherry cask on the entry, wafer, milk chocolate coating. Lots of spices, star anise, cloves and cardamom pods. Finish: A finish that builds its intensity long after the final sip, plenty of Mourvèdre. BRUICHLADDICH 17 YO 2006 Rest & Be Thankful Islay, Single Malt, 59.1%, 500ml Single Cask #535, ex-Mourvèdre Wine Cask Limited edition of 392 bottles – NWW Exclusive
THE SPIRIT OF ISLAY The dark days of a northern winter may be settling in across the Western Isles of Scotland, but down a video call from Islay Anthony Wills is all smiles. And with good reason. The distillery he founded, Kilchoman, is on a roll. Less than 20 years after the first new make flowed into the spirit safe, business is booming. Production has increased tenfold, and his boutique distillery has grown a reputation for both celebrating tradition and fostering innovation. THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE 28
CAPTION - STILL ROOM “Honestly,” says Wills. “I never dreamed we’d be in the position we are now. I never imagined we’d be here. Never imagined my sons would be part of the business. Kilchoman has worked way past my expectations.” Before founding Kilchoman Wills had built up a successful career in the drinks industry. First in the wine trade and later – after moving to Scotland 30 years ago – as an independent bottler of single malt whisky. In the 1990s, business boomed with the growing interest in single malt. But as the demand for single casks grew, so the available supply dwindled. “I saw the end game and looked at where the premium end of malt market was going and realised, I needed to build my own distillery.” It was a bold move, but Wills was determined. “I didn’t look too closely at the finances, which might be completely nuts,” says Wills with a chuckle. “But I always knew if I could produce good spirit and put it into good wood, I’d have a market for it. So, I ploughed ahead.” THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE ANTHONY WILLS THE KILN FLOOR MALTING BARLEY FIELDS AT KILCHOMAN 29
THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE AN HOMAGE TO ISLAND HERITAGE After poring over potential sites across Scotland Wills settled on Islay, where his wife’s family had laid down roots nearly a century before. Aside from the family connection, Wills knew that Islay’s cachet would help him get a foot in the door of an increasingly competitive market. And he wanted his distillery to be different; not simply follow in the footsteps of Islay’s more established players. So Kilchoman began with a simple premise: to reconnect with the island’s rich heritage of farm distilling. Islay was once home to 35 registered farm distilleries, malting barley from their own fields, with peat cut from the banks that carpet this windswept isle. Celebrating that heritage, in a modern distillery, was the dream that drove Kilchoman. But with cash flow concerns nipping at his heels, Wills also knew he needed to have a quality whisky in the market as soon as possible. Crafting big, bold spirits that demanded a decade in barrel simply wasn’t an option. Instead, Wills wanted a lightly floral spirit, imbued with a hint of peat and a subtle line of salinity. Matured in good barrels, he had a hunch that the earliest releases of Kilchoman would impress, even in youth. So, he turned to the late – but legendary – whisky consultant Jim Swan, whose design for Kilchoman’s small stills with narrow swan necks produced just the light and fruity spirit Wills had envisioned. “Jim got it spot on,” says Wills with a smile. ISLAY’S FARM DISTILLERY The rest, as they say, is history, and since the first spirit flowed into barrel in 2006, Kilchoman has become famous the world over for its fruity, floral expression of Islay. That’s especially true in the 100% Islay release, which is made with barley grown and malted on the farm using Islay peat; distilled, matured, and bottled on-site. Growing barley on Islay is no easy task, but trial and error showed the varieties that could withstand the elements and provide unique character to the spirit. And while Wills isn’t as convinced about the notion of terroir in whisky as Mark Reynier, his former neighbour who famously revived Bruichladdich, he does want whisky drinkers to tap into the seasonality of spirit. It’s why their 100% Islay is released in Autumn each year, just as the new barley harvest is brought in for malting. Kilchoman is one of just a handful still malting their own barley on a traditional malting floor, here infused with the unmistakable scent of peat cut from Islay’s salt-tinged bogs. It’s a perfect expression of the island; a spirit of Islay from barley to barrel. But with only 13 000 bottles available each year, it’s a whisky Wills is eager to grow. “We have a big drainage programme going on at the moment, so we’re bringing more of our fields into barley production,” explains Wills, who’s joined in the business by his wife Kathy, and their three sons. “This year we harvested 280 tons of barley. We’re looking to get that closer to 400 tons in the next two or three years.” 100% ISLAY ANNUAL BOTTLING KILCHOMAN’S POT STILLS 30
THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE FROM ISLAY TO THE ISLANDS Taking the farm distillery concept to the Caribbean is next on the Kilchoman todo list, with the Wills family growing the business into the world of premium rum. “We see rum as the next big dark spirits success story,” says Wills. “We have bought property in Barbados, and have planning permission for a distillery, but we’re not pushing ahead with the project just yet. For now, our main focus is on Kilchoman.” True to the Kilchoman philosophy, their rum will be made from local sugarcane – bought from a neighbouring farm – to be crushed and distilled onsite. Watch this space! “BOURBON OUTSHINES OLOROSO” While the 100% Islay speaks to the founding philosophy of Kilchoman, the brand’s popularity in more than 70 countries worldwide is built on the wider release of two core expressions. Machir Bay is matured predominantly in bourbon barrels and balances classic Islay peat character with vanilla and citrus sweetness, while Sanaig leans on the influence of oloroso sherry butts for layers of richness, stone fruit, soft peat, and spices. The majority (65%) of Kilchoman’s production is matured in bourbon casks, with up to 30% going into oloroso sherry butts. The rest is devoted to experimental casks, from calvados and cognac to tequila. “The combination of bourbon and sherry works really well for us, but for long-term maturation we find bourbon outshines oloroso,” says Wills. “The peaty, smoky briny character soon gets smothered by sherry if you’re not careful.” WHEN TASTE TRUMPS TIME IN THE BARREL Both are non-age-statement whiskies because for Wills age is just a number. Though Kilchoman recently released a 16-year-old malt, “there’s too much talk about old being better, and it’s not. It’s more expensive, but it’s not always better,” he says. “For Kilchoman it doesn’t matter what the age is. We put it out there when it’s ready; when we believe it won’t get any better than this.” Keeping a keen eye for quality is key, so little surprise that Kilchoman retains its entire production – more than 600 000 litres of spirit – for its own use. “That’s a lot of whisky, but we feel very strongly that we want to hold onto our brand,” says Wills. It is a lot of whisky, and a far cry from the 50 000 litres produced in 2006. But it’s still not enough. With demand booming, and a keen eye on future demand, Kilchoman plans to double production. “If people enjoy your whisky, make more of it! Are we going to stop growing? No!” says Wills emphatically. “We want to be in a position to control production, rather than going flat-out all the time. We’re not a small farm distillery anymore, we’re a slightly bigger one, but we’re still a farm distillery.” 31 EXPLORE The Kilchoman Distillery
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MTg2Mzc2MQ==