But many of those assumptions are exactly that, assumptions, with little basis in Irish distilling history. And it’s those misconceptions that the Irish Technical File governing the production of Irish whiskey – or whisky, if you prefer – sought to clarify. The new energy came about in the 2010s, with a flush of brand-new distilleries reinvigorating the Irish distilling industry. “We went from just two active distilleries in the early-80s, to three in 1987, and then four in 2007 when Kilbeggan restarted,” adds Cashman. “Today there are 48, with McConnell’s distillery in Belfast, and perhaps another 10 in the pipeline.” In 2019 the newly rejuvenated industry laid down the Irish Technical File, noting that Irish whiskey allows for a diversity that’s not widely known. For starters, it’s whiskey or whisky, both have a basis in Irish history, and either double or triple distillation can be used. It’s a 19-page tome that won’t be repeated here, but is well worth a read. But it is also a document of its time, of an industry finding its feet once more and looking to draw a line in the sand. “There had to be structure for the Irish whiskey industry for it to apply for a geographical indicator, to have equal status and legal recognition. It made it easier for us to be able to protect our industry,” explains Cashman. Almost from the moment the Technical File was signed off there was a realisation it would need to change, so little surprise it is now being reconsidered and revised by some of the brightest minds in the Irish whisky industry. Under the guidance of Powerscourt’s acclaimed founding master distiller Noel Sweeney, the technical committee within the Irish Whiskey Association is looking to update the Technical File, paying heed to Irish distilling history while allowing for future growth and innovation in a fast-moving global industry. “The changes are primarily around the mash bills,” says Cashman. “This technical file stipulates no more than five percent of cereal other than malted barley, but there is really no historical context for that.” Along with gaps in definitions – “There’s no definition of what rye whisky is in Ireland,” says Cashman – other key changes around maturation are also being considered. “The File allows for maturation in any wooden vessel and the vast majority of Irish whisky is oak-matured, because it just works better, but even within that document you can see where there is leeway for change,” says Cashman. “We are a vastly different industry today, a vibrant industry, and it’s quite a cooperative industry as well. There is a lot of innovation, but not for the sake of it. A lot of people are now looking to the past, and looking at new methods, other cereals and the use of peat.” But when the revised Technical File is released, one thing certainly won’t change. Whether you prefer ‘whiskey’, ‘whisky’ or even the Gaelic ‘Uisce Beatha’ they are all correct when it comes to describing the fabulous spirits from the Emerald Isle. 43 THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE READ MORE The Technical File (2019)
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy MTg2Mzc2MQ==