THE NAVIGATOR | FEATURE 50 That carries through to the six key production pillars that underpin Michter’s, overseen by Wilson, in her role as Master of Maturation. Wilson is hugely respected in the spirits industry and joined Michter’s after a decade at Diageo North America, where she rose to Director of Distillation and Maturation. Wilson is also the first woman to chair the century-old Kentucky Distillers Association, and at Michter’s is focused on innovation in maturation. To begin with, Michter’s insists on barrels made of American oak that is naturally seasoned and air-dried – not kiln-dried – for between 18 months and five years, ensuring both a chemical and microbiological evolution of the wood grain. And while many Kentucky distilleries simply char their new oak barrels, as per the regulations for bourbon, at Michter’s the barrels are toasted before charring. It’s a crucial step, says Wilson, as “that slow heating helps to break down different compounds that can influence the final product.” Crucially, the Michter’s spirit is first diluted to 51.5% ABV (103 proof) before barrelling. Industry regulations permit distillate to be entered into the barrel at the considerably higher 62.5% ABV (125 proof). Wilson however is adamant that a lower entry strength can yield a richer aged whiskey. In her opinion, a bit more water added to the spirit at barreling results in a smoother, more distinctive whiskey. “Some compounds from the wood dissolve more easily in water, some in alcohol,” explains Wilson. “By adding more water before maturation, to lower the proof before entry into the barrels, that water has the opportunity to become part of the barrel chemistry. All of which then makes for that rich smooth-drinking whiskey that Michter’s is famous for.” With the spirit in the barrel, Michter’s uses proactive heat-cycling to maximise the interaction between whiskey and wood, the constant heating and cooling pushing the spirit in and out of the capillaries of the oak. “Dan gives us a beautiful spirit out of the still, and the barrel is the final ingredient,” says Wilson. “You want to get as much interaction with that wood as possible. For every year that we heat cycle, we feel that we get an extra six months of ageing on the product. So if a heat cycled product is six years old we’d expect it to taste like a non-heat cycled whiskey that is eight or nine years old. There are increased costs associated with that too, but it creates a rich, and more complex product.” And remember? Costs be damned. Air-drying at Independent Stave Company Toasting at Kelvin Cooperage Barreling at 51.5% ABV (103 Proof)
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